แสดงบทความที่มีป้ายกำกับ Concrete แสดงบทความทั้งหมด
แสดงบทความที่มีป้ายกำกับ Concrete แสดงบทความทั้งหมด

วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 5 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555

All About Retaining Walls - Concrete Retaining Walls and Decorative Retaining Walls

Introduction to Retaining Walls

First, a retaining wall is a structure that holds back, or "retains," lateral faces of dirt, water, or other materials. Retaining walls are used to prevent erosion or collapse of higher level ground onto a certain building, structure, or general area. The earth that is retained is often referred to as backfill. The word backfill is also used as a verb to describe placing more dirt behind a retaining wall to make the ground more level.

Retaining walls can be the answer if you are blessed (or cursed) to a contoured lot. They can turn a steep slope into a terraced yard, creating a stair step effect instead of a slope.

Retaining walls can be constructed from many different materials using many different techniques. There are several factors that influence which choice will be the best choice for each situation, including cost, height of the wall, soil characteristics, and ground water conditions.

Generally, most municipalities require that any retaining wall over four feet in height be engineered or approved by a licensed engineer. It is important to check local building codes before starting any retaining wall projects, even if it is below four feet tall. After all, retaining walls should be structurally sound before there is any thought of aesthetic appeal. The retaining wall must be able to stand up to the pressure exerted by the backfill, also called lateral earth pressure. This lateral earth pressure is a majority of the force that the retaining wall will need to bear. Lateral earth pressure is determined by studying the weight of the soil unit, slope of the soil, soil type (for plasticity and adhesion purposes with clay soil types), and ground water levels. Engineers do many calculations with these factors to determine what design to implement with the wall. To homeowners and contractors that do not want to go through engineering steps, it is generally a good rule to overdo it. Many structural methods to build retaining walls with withhold earth, at least temporarily, with a height up to four feet, are adequate, which is why most local building codes require engineering if the wall will be over four feet tall.

However, even methods that may seem adequate for retaining earth can fail if they are not built properly. Many times, it is elements below grade that can make (or break) a retaining wall. Problems including bowing, slanting, or cracking are evidence of retaining wall failure because it was not successful in retaining the dirt. Cutting costs with a bad contractor, insufficient materials, or neglecting the below grade elements can turn out to be more expensive over time if replacement or repair is necessary often or if collapse of earth causes damage to nearby structures. For example, erosion can cause foundation issues if dirt erodes from under the foundation. This is just one example how a retaining wall failure can cause expensive problems aside from the cost to repair or replace the retaining wall.

Another aspect that is often neglected or underestimated that can cause failure of a retaining wall is drainage. Inadequate drainage of retaining walls can mean that water is trapped behind the wall, adding to the weight that the wall must hold back. Usually weep holes and/or drainage pipes are used to flush rain water and ground water from behind the wall. It is important that the drainage system, whatever it be, have a filter barrier to keep dirt from clogging the drain or weep hole.

Options for Retaining Wall Materials

· Railroad Crossties - Railroad crossties, also shortened to railroad ties, can be used as a retaining wall material; however, as with most every retaining wall material, it must be installed correctly in order to be a solution. For example, most railroad tie retaining walls will need a substantial footer to tie the crossties to in order to keep the bottom from sliding out. Also, there needs to be perpendicular members placed into the ground behind the wall to keep the wall from overturning. These members, called deadmen, should be at least 1.5 times as long as the wall is high and should be placed at minimum every 6 feet or so. Because railroad ties are wood (even though they are treated most of the time), there is a risk that they may rot over time or be subject to termite infestation, which can lead to a weak wall likely to bulge or break. And, even though there are areas for water to slowly seep though, it is still a good idea to have a filtered drain or weep holes designed into the wall.

· Treated Wood - Treated wood retaining walls offer many of the same risks as retaining walls because over time it is susceptible to rot and termite infestation. It is a labor intensive construction, but it is usually lightweight and decently strong if built correctly. It is recommended to build a concrete footer to attach the wall to in order to keep it from shifting. Construction usually requires a clear area to be backfilled after the wall is built, so it is not always the best material to use if you are replacing an existing retaining wall. This wall still needs weep holes or drains designed into the wall. Standing water behind the wood will only increase risk of rot.

· Concrete - Concrete is a great material to use for retaining walls. Of course, there is a right and a wrong way to build a concrete retaining wall, which makes choosing your contractor a big job. There are many different designs that can lead to a successful concrete retaining wall, but one thing is for sure: there needs to be a footer beneath the wall to ensure success. Concrete is one of the most durable man-made products known to man. Most concrete poured today is engineered to last for over 50 years. Plus, concrete offers many decorative options as well. Aside from a plain, white concrete retaining wall, you can also pour a colored concrete retaining wall, stain a retaining wall after it has cured, pour into a patterned form, apply a vertical stamp material and pattern after poured, etc. Sealing the concrete wall can lead to an easy-to-maintain surface that rinses free of most dirt and grime.

· Blocks or Paver Stones - Engineered blocks that stack together to make a wall must be as simple as building with Legos, right? Nope. These retaining walls should also have a significant footer in order to support not only the weight of the dirt but also the weight of the wall. These blocks can be a unique look, but it may even be necessary to place a concrete retaining wall behind the blocks if there immense lateral earth pressure. In such a case, the concrete would be the structural element, using the blocks as a visual feature.

· Rock or Brick - One of the favorite looks for a retaining wall is natural stone or brick. These materials usually look more permanent and traditionally classy. However, just as we have seen with the other materials, it is necessary to have a concrete footer below grade to carry the weight and ensure success of the retaining wall. Like architectural blocks or paver systems, it may be necessary to back a masonry retaining wall with a concrete retaining wall for structural support.

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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 18 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Laminate Flooring How To - Covering Concrete Stairs With Laminate

You have a beautiful laminate floor and you're wondering if you should finish the concrete stairs in laminate to give the space a cohesive, designer feel. First of all, is it possible? Can you cover concrete with laminate? The answer is yes. In fact, if you've ever covered wooden stairs, the process is similar, except that the nosing installation is a little trickier.

What You'll Need

To accomplish this task you'll need:

PL200 or stronger construction glue
Skill saw for cutting laminate
Chop saw for cutting metal nosings
drill with a concrete bit
electric screwdriver
plastic plugs
broom

I recommend using metal nosings as these are stronger, and will hold better on concrete stairs. (Laminate nosings that come in a kit are also trickier as the tracks need to be in exactly the right spot, and there isn't a lot of standardization--every manufacturer makes a slightly different size/style of laminate nosing).

What to Do

Start by sweeping the stairs and cleaning up any shavings or dust. You'll need a clean surface for the glue to adhere properly to the concrete and laminate. Once the area is clean, start with the risers first.

Measure, mark and cut each laminate plank to fit the riser with the groove side facing downwards. Glue the riser and the back of the plank, and secure the plank in place, again, making sure that the groove is at the bottom of the riser. Once all the risers are glued, you're ready to start on the nosings.

Begin by measuring and cutting the metal nosings to fit. Mark on the concrete where the screws will go, then using a drill with a concrete bit, drill the holes. Place a plastic plug in each hole. Number the nosings so that you match each one to the correct tread when you screwnail them in later.

Measure, mark and cut each laminate plank to fit the tread with the groove side facing inwards to meet the bottom of the riser. Arranging the planks so that the groove on the riser meets the groove on the tread makes for a clean, professional edge in the corner. Glue the tread and the back of the plank and secure the plank in place, making sure that groove faces inward.

Stair nosings are intended to finish the look by capping the lip of the stair. Unfortunately, with concrete stairs this can be a little tricky as the lip on the stairs is often thicker than the actual stair nosing. If this is the, cut a laminate plank so that it's wide enough to cover the the concrete lip, and glue it to the face of the lip on each tread. Then secure the nosing over top by screwnailing it through the laminate tread into the pre-drilled holes in the concrete. (If you've already covered the lip-face with laminate, you can glue the nosing to the laminate for extra adherance, and then screwnail the top of the nosing into place.)

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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 13 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2554

Decorative Concrete

Concrete has long been used in building, for stairs, and so much more. The functions that concrete can have vary greatly, as it is a widely used product. However, decorative concrete brings out a whole new use for concrete.

Concrete can be used as a decoration such as in walls, lawn accessories, floors, countertops, and more.

Embedding Personal or Decorative Items -

With decorative concrete you can have a countertop completely personalized by having your personal affects embedded in the concrete such as keepsakes that have a special sentimental value for you. You could also use your favorite items such as seashells from your favorite beach, or even from childhood, embedded in your concrete countertops.

Colorful, Decorative Concrete -

We often think of concrete as being gray in color. However, when using concrete as a decorative material iron oxides can be mixed into the concrete to create colors such as yellow, black and red. Of course, the specific hue of those colors (yellow, black and red) can be different depending on how dark or how bright you want them to be.

Decorative Concrete Stamps -

Hey, the stars in Hollywood do it, so why not you? When the concrete is still wet you can have certain designs stamped into the concrete to create a variety of different styles. You could also use stamping to create a stone or brick style to your concrete.

Decorative concrete can have so many different uses, and concrete is a wonderful choice for your home because it is so strong, easy to care for, and will last probably longer than your home itself. You can even change anything you want with the decorative concrete you already have in your home by making different colors, adding slabs to create something new and different. Nothing you do with decorative concrete has to stay there forever. You can change it at a later time if you decide that you want to do that.

You can change the color of your existing concrete by using acid staining, which creates a chemical reaction that changes the color of the concrete, or you can use concrete dyes. However, many people are turning to acid staining their concrete because of the fading effects concrete dyes can have. It was found that sunlight made the colors fade with concrete dyes if the concrete was left outside, or if sunlight were to hit a portion of your concrete wall or floor.

This is a versatile and semi permanent way to decorate your home. Decorative concrete walls, countertops, lawn accessories, and floors can be a great choice for you and your home.

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วันศุกร์ที่ 4 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2554

Using Recycled Sidewalks to Build Concrete Stairs and Small Retaining Walls

As recycling becomes a bigger issue in today's society and dump fees continue to rise, anything we can do, to make a difference, we should. Using recycled sidewalks to build concrete stairs is an excellent way for recycling old sidewalks and driveways.

The first time I'd seen one, was outside a restaurant where I lived and they did a pretty good job, using the pieces of an old sidewalk, creatively. I never seen anything like this before and like most of us know, there's a first time for everything. Building concrete stairs with recycled materials got me thinking about other things that we could build with recycled building products.

People aren't just using recycled concrete for stairways, they're using them for small retaining walls. Recycled concrete retaining walls and stairways can be built from small to large sections of broken sidewalks and driveways.

Simply position the broken pieces into decorative designs, until you have something that functions as a stairway. Start from the bottom and work your way up, until you've created a beautiful recycled concrete stairway.

If you're planning on building a retaining wall out of used concrete, simply stack these materials on top of each other, until you've created the retaining wall, you envisioned. I don't recommend building retaining walls higher than 24 inches with these types of materials.

I know I didn't go into a lot of detail, but you probably got the basic idea. Have fun and use your imagination while keeping safety in the back of your mind at all times.

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วันอังคารที่ 25 ตุลาคม พ.ศ. 2554

How to Fix-Up Concrete Front Entry Steps

The front entry steps sustain a reasonable amount of damage over time. This damage is usually done to the concrete of the steps. You can experience damage, cracks, loose or crumbling concrete and chips. The best way to avoid further damage is to fix it up as soon as possible. The more time you to fix the problem, the more will be the damage and repairing cost.

Required Material

- Cement
- Two buckets
- Hammer
- Plastic sheet
- Pressure washer
- Metal or wooden stakes
- Chisel
- Strips of lumber the length of your stairs
- Paintbrush
- Broom
- Coarse sand

Steps

1. Clean the front step properly to have a better idea of any loose or crumbling cement.

2. Remove the loose cement from the steps with the help of hammer and chisel.

3. Before proceeding further, pressure wash your steps with 10 inch spray. This will remove all the grime, dirt or other debris present on the surface of the steps.

4. Now you have to make your mind that how thick layer of concrete layer you want on the steps. The ideal choice would be around three quarters of an inch.

5. Put the pieces of the lumber on each side of the steps to prevent concrete coating to ooze over the edges of the steps. Make sure that the height of the lumber should be leveled with the concrete coating.

6. It is important to secure the lumber pieces so that they remain firm against the steps. Firm hold lumber pieces ensure that no concrete will ooze away.

7. Make a mixture of concrete and coarse for your coating or overlay. Take two parts of sand with one part of cement and make a mixture.

8. To make the mixture thin enough to flow out of the bucket easily add some water to it.

9. To prepare the cement paint, take another bucket and add water cement and water to it until you have consistency of paint. This mixture is helpful in proper adherence of the concrete coating

10. Spread a layer of cement paint on the steps. To distribute it evenly on the surface you can use paintbrush.

11. After the cement paint layer, apply the mixture of concrete over the surface of the steps to give it a new coating of concrete. After applying the coating of concrete, wait for an hour or so to take it position on the steps.

12. Cover the newly coat of concrete with plastic for few days. This will help concrete to settle down properly on the steps.

13. After few days take the sheet off from the newly coated steps and add a second coat of cement paint on to the surface. This layer of cement paint will even out the textures of the concrete surface.

14. Leave the cement to dry for sometime. Later remove the lumber pieces. Wait for 24 hours before using those steps again.

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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 9 ตุลาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Introduction to Concrete Molds

As home owners, contractors, and artists are continuously looking for new ways to make themselves and their products stand out, projects made out of new materials have become very popular. Solid surface countertops and new plastics make great building materials, but one of the older mainstays of construction is being resourced to take a new place in modern design.

Concrete has typically been the building blocks of construction and is now finding new life as a finishing product. Concrete is no longer just a flat slab on the ground, or a foundation for a building. With the development of concrete molds the builder or designer can take this versatile material and transform it into almost any shape they see fit. Previous molds for concrete typically consisted of large Styrofoam hallow walls into which concrete was poured and cured to create basements and foundations for buildings. When used for driveways these molds were even simpler, often just consisting of a few wooden slats made into a square form. With the development of intricate machine made molds, or even do-it-yourself molds, the same concrete material found in structural construction can be made into works of art.

The material used most often for these molds is a high tech plastic with the exterior designers of the final product etched into the interior of the mold. Once the mold is created the designer of the piece can pour the concrete mixture into the hollow mold and allow it to harden. The final product is a beautiful recreation of the negative area of the mold. The uses for these molds vary. One popular function for these molds is garden and landscaping decorations. In the past if you wanted a stone or concrete sculpture, and artist would need to be commissioned to chip away at a large piece of stone until the final product has been exposed. Times have changed quite a bit. To achieve the same results, you no longer need to be an incredible artist or super rich. Today's molds are priced so the average home owner can find them affordable. Anyone with a spare afternoon, a few tools, and access to concrete can create a product that their friends and family will think is professionally done. For the more ambitious do-it-yourselfer, concrete molds can be used to create end products previously only made out of more pliable building materials. Concrete countertops and furniture have become a design rage in the past few years.

The durability, beauty, and customization options present in concrete are not found in other materials that do not have the ability to take different forms as concrete does. These molds allow you to create benches, tables, stairs, and flooring that can be tinted the color you want, and include indentations that the designer puts into the project while curing. This cannot be done when building with stone such as granite and quartz. The wide variety of molds allow you to utilize the creative side of your do-it-yourself persona while at the same time making your friends and family believe you spent a lot more than you did. Professional made molds can be found from multiple sources around the internet and at brick and mortar locations. Once you start using them, you may find that it is your new favorite pastime.

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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 6 ตุลาคม พ.ศ. 2554

10 Reasons For Decorative Concrete Basement Floors

I got really interested in interior decorative concrete applications about 6 years ago. In 2002 I was rehabbing old steel buildings with new facades, landscaping, signage, lighting, basically turning lemons into lemonade.

Flooring was a big issue. The floors were always concrete. The big issue was height at steps and doorways. Any new flooring that added height required doors to be removed, openings raised, new doors purchased and installed. A big expense. At stairways, any increase of floor height at stairs created a zoning violation and hence denial of the Certificate of Occupancy. Tile and hardwood never worked, they always added an inch.

The only solution that worked was either a concrete acid stain with concrete sealers or a concrete overlay. Most older floors needed a concrete overlay which added less than 1/8th inch in height.

There are many concrete floors where the only decorative solution is a stain or overlay. One of the largest is basement floors. Almost everyone who owns a home or retail store with a basement has the same flooring issue. Everyone who has a concrete overlay in their basement is happy, those that don't wish they did.

So here are the 10 reasons why I like concrete overlays on a basement floor.

1. Do It Yourself - yes you can. Many have purchased decorative concrete kits and installed themselves with excellent results for under $2.00 per square foot.

2. Green - Concrete, water based dyes and sealers are non - hazardous. Reducing dust and mold, they are the healthiest floors.

3. Thin - concrete overlays at less then 1/8th inch thick solve the height issue created by other floors. Saves time, money and hassle.

4. Durable - Bonds to concrete with strength of Iron. Cures to a rock hard finish. Many retail stores, restaurants and grocery stores have them because they are durable.

5. Custom - Create simple gray or brown floors. Easily design with patterns using tape or stencils. Acid stains and concrete dyes can be applied. The beauty of overlays is ability to control color.

6. Moisture - Decorative concrete floors can survive flooding. They are porous and breathable allowing moisture vapor from concrete slab to pass through.

7. Versatile - They can be applied right up concrete stairs and walls.

8 Quick application - applications are 2-3 days.

9. Price - In most cases decorative concrete kits can be purchased with all tools and materials for under $2.00 per square foot.

10. Satisfying - The satisfaction of creating your own concrete floor is very high.

That's why I like decorative concrete overlays on basement floors. They work!

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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 22 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2554

A Look at Precast Concrete Walls: Advantages, Applications, and Types

Concrete plays a significant role in the field of construction since it functions as the most basic foundation of edifices. Nowadays, there are different types of concrete that can be used for a variety of applications. However, one of the most commonly utilized forms is precast concrete walls which are known for their cost-effectiveness and design sustainability. Read on to find out more about this type of concrete.

As opposed to regular variants of concrete that are normally molded, poured and cured on-site, precast concrete walls refer to the type of concrete that is manufactured at a controlled plant and transported to the site where the construction is taking place. It can be utilized in a variety of construction projects ranging from landscaping and house fencing to massive buildings and bridges. Today, this concrete type is now being used both in home and building constructions because of its availability, and its ability to provide high quality and uniform structures that cannot be accomplished using on-site concretes.

There are many benefits that can be derived from the use of precast over other kinds of concrete. To begin with, as precast is crafted at a plant under controlled conditions, you can be assured about its quality as it regularly undergoes strict quality control inspections. The mold used to create this concrete type can be used several times, unlike those of on-site concretes whose molds must be discarded after every use. Hence, precast can be molded in a variety of forms, shapes, sizes, thicknesses, and finishes, allowing you to choose the ones that would befit the appearance of the structure that you have in mind. When it comes to labor cost, precast is cheaper compared to on-site concrete since its creation does not require several numbers of skilled workers as it can be created by two people.

A variety of products can be made using precast. Many municipalities extensively use precast pipes as a part of their waste water disposal and treatment projects. For areas that are prone to different kinds of natural calamities like tornadoes, precast storm cellars are regarded as economical means to establish safe shelters during such catastrophes. Modern home creators and landscapers are also adept in using precast as walls, stairs, and fences because they could efficiently use time since this concrete is ready to install, not to mention that it is visually appealing.

Precast concrete walls can be purchased in single or double thickness form. When referring to a single thickness precast, this is the one usually applied as a soundproofing element inside homes and offices, and is noted for its ability to add durability to walls. Double thickness precast walls, on the other hand, are typically added to provide insulation and strength for load-bearing walls as well as in areas that are frequently hit by storms and requires sturdier home constructions. Aside from single and double thickness forms, precast are also manufactured with telecommunications and electrical outlets installed in them, which is why when they are transported to the site of construction they only require assembly and installation.

Today, many companies manufacture and sell concretes that are precast in form, and they are usually regulated by government agencies and trade associations. Hence, clients can be assured that they are purchasing high quality concretes that have undergone an extensive inspection process. Therefore, if you would like to have sturdy, cost-effective, aesthetically pleasing and premium quality walls, stairs, and fences for your home, precast concrete is the most ideal building material that could fulfill your needs.

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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 7 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Parking Garage Restoration and Maintenance and Concrete Restoration

It is important to perform regular maintenance on parking garages in order to extend the life of existing parking structures and maintain a clean, functional presence for the public who park in your garage. This includes both steel and concrete rehabilitation. A parking garage restoration firm can come on site and make these parking garage repair evaluations for you and structure an annual program for your parking garage. Types of restoration that can be performed are: overhead concrete replacement, full-floor concrete replacement, post-tensioning and post-tensioning repair, carbon fiber installation, steel plating and bracing, shotcrete installation, plaza rehabilitation, deck waterproofing systems, including joint sealants, traffic deck coatings, concrete sealers and expansion joint sealing systems.
Maintenance of a parking garage is key. Areas to look for in maintenance of parking structures are; Structural systems: Floors in parking garages can show cracks, expansion joints, unevenness across cracks, delaminating of concrete, shifting in the floor surfaces. It is good to inspect drain locations where water settles in a parking garage. Inspection of floors of parking garages should be every three months. Framing components in a parking garage are comprised of the building’s columns, beams and spandrel panels. These are often constructed of steel, concrete or steel-encased concrete. Look for places where the concrete has cracked and where the reinforcing materials are exposed and corrosion has set in. Framing components in a parking structure should be inspected every three months. Walls and towers in parking garages should be plumb. If you see cracking on the wall surfaces, stair treads become misaligned or the expansion joints may open up. Walls and towers of parking garages and concrete parking structures should be inspected quarterly. Connections in a parking garage are places where the structural system components are bolted, welded or grouted in place and should be carefully examined for corrosion, cracking, spalling or distress. Connections should be inspected on a quarterly basis.
Parking garages constructed of concrete can be particularly susceptible to the negative effects of stress. Movement-induced stresses can result in concrete cracks. These cracks can reduce load carrying capacity, create the potential for leakage and facilitate intrusion of chlorides and other harmful chemicals into the parking structure. When stress cracking is identified in a parking garage, it’s important to quickly identify the cause of the problem and correct it. A growing number of parking garage owners are relying on carbon fiber reinforcement products to supplement the existing load capacity of their structures, and permanently and cost-effectively reinforce and repair stress cracks in their parking garage. Up to 10 times stronger than steel reinforcement, carbon fiber reinforcement is ideal for parking structure applications, because it is lightweight, easy to handle and apply and completely inert and non-corrosive. The sooner you address the cause of the cracks — and the sooner you execute a carbon fiber repair, the less likely you are to have major and costly structural problems further down the road. A parking garage expert will be capable of examining your garage and making determinations on carbon fiber reinforcement.

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วันอังคารที่ 14 มิถุนายน พ.ศ. 2554

Methods Employed In Concrete Demolition

Concrete is a hard material made up of sand, gravel, cement and water. This material is used in the construction of buildings because of its great strong point and resilience. The buildings made of concrete are very much resistant to the damage due to environmental changes or any other damage. But in certain cases we need to demolish the building in order to either reconstruct it or to use it for some other purpose and in that case we need to use certain methods by which we easily demolish the building. Demolishing of the building is not an easy task and it cannot be performed by oneself as it requires the large instruments that we don't have in our homes. Therefore, for demolition of our building we need to take help from a company providing demolition services or can privately hire a team for this purpose. If you contact a company then there are greater chances of accurate and efficient work as compared to the hiring of a team privately. In this article, our main concern is on the need of demolition and methods used in it. For small houses, in which we need to break a floor of the room or a wall, the laborers can easily demolish it with the help of hammers. This method is cost effective and practical for small houses or small demolition work.
In case of demolition, we knock down walls and tear up the floors. The method used depends on the size of the building to be demolished and the purpose of demolition. The hazardous but commonly used method is the explosion. Bomb designed according to the size of the building is placed inside the building at the appropriate site and then is made to explode inside the building by just pressing the remote a bit far from the building. The explosion produces a great sound and every thing inside the building its walls, its floors, its stairs all get crushed into smaller pieces. This made has the advantage that it saves the time of breaking walls one by one with the help of a hammer as well as reduces the cost required to pay the hardworking laborers. The third advantage is that everything easily gets crushed into dirt particles without exerting much effort.
This method is effective but its disadvantage is that a large number of hazardous reactions take place and the gases produced as a result of these reactions go into the air and then cause serious health problems. As soon as the explosion takes place the dirt get spread and it enters the eyes and the lungs of the workers because of which they face problems of vision and suffer recurrently from asthma. The workers must take the precautionary measures by wearing the glasses, gloves and  Mask on face. They must take care that they do not go much near to the site of explosion. There is another method known as ball and crane method. The workers take the size of the demolish requiring area and then design a ball of the size enough to demolish that building. The ball is then placed in crane and then through with the help of it in order to demolish the building.

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วันพุธที่ 22 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Building Concrete Forms, Tips and Techniques in Carpentry

Here you will find general information, strategies, and techniques when building concrete forms in carpentry. Concrete forms are built to hold wet concrete. Once the form is built the wet concrete gets poured in the form, this is usually done by a truck, wheel borrow, or shovel.

When the concrete dries the form is then stripped. After the form is stripped you will have your finish product. This method is used commonly when building bridges, curves, and foundation of buildings, pillar, steps, and walls. Majority of this work is done outside in extreme weather conditions.

Doing this work is very exciting. Sometimes carpenters are working in the middle of highways as cars are passing by at high speeds. Or they may be required to walk across a plank carrying a sheet of plywood on a windy day and one wrong move and they fall into a lake. Now that's exciting. Carpenters get dirty as well, having to work in the mud and rain swinging a hammer trying to put nails in wood or using a sledge hammer trying to sink a four foot steak in muddy ground. This is the hardcore part of carpentry building concrete forms.

_Before building the concrete form all material such as plywood and two by fours should be inspected for cracks and serious flaws. Using messed up material will give you weak parts in your form and result to a blow out meaning wet concrete pours or blows out the form which means you failed to do the job right. A carpenter's main objective is to not have blowouts plain and simple.

_While building remember to build accordingly to what your customer wants

_Always brace and support your forms correctly.
There are no short cuts.

_Its better to overbuild than it is to under build. Overbuilding assures you that there will not be any blow out.

_Using the right nails for the job is very important. Using the wrong size nails can result to a blow out. Also use enough nails.

_All steaks metal or wood should be nailed in the ground until they are at least 3 feet in.

_When swinging your hammer remember it's all in the wrist let your wrist do the swinging

_After you are done building the form look over your work make sure you did not forget anything.

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วันศุกร์ที่ 19 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2553

Do-It-Yourself Concrete Room Addition Foundation

This information can also be very important to do-it-yourselfers that will be building other projects, for future home improvements. How can a do-it-yourselfer learn to build a concrete room addition foundation? Let's get started.

The first thing that you're going to need is a set of plans or building blueprints and they should have been approved by your local building department and planning department. There should be specific architectural details, that you will need to examine carefully, to build your new concrete room addition foundation correctly.

Let's get started with the digging. You're building plans, should give you the width and depth and the exact location, of the building footings that will need to be dug. Grab your shovels and get started. Make sure that all of the dirt is removed properly, before you start to form the room addition foundation footings.

Next you will need to form the foundation. This can be done using 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 form boards. You can easily apply these form boards, in the exact location, that the building plans are suggesting. You can use 1 x 3 wood or metal stakes that can be purchased at any home improvement or lumber yard, to hold up your form boards in the correct position.

The sole purpose of the form boards, will be to hold the concrete in, once it is poured. Next you will need to install all of the rebar and building hardware, that will also be required on your building blueprints. Make sure that you examine these building plans to find the exact location, for all of your anchor bolts, hold down bolts and all of your structural rebar.

Once this is done, you're ready to pour your concrete, but don't pour your concrete, until you have contacted your local building inspector to examine your new room addition building foundation.

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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 11 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2553

Decorative Concrete Ideas For Design and Durability

Concrete surfaces are generally considered to be grey and dull. But that general opinion is set to change. Research and development of new concepts in coloring and texturing of concrete surfaces has led to the concrete virtually taking any color, texture, and shape, lately which has multiplied consumer options of using decorative concrete for interior flooring and walling. What was once driveway and foot path material has made a grand entry indoors in the shape of concrete. The affordability of concrete is the primary reason for it turning out to be a viable option for builders, decorators and buyers, though the looks, feel and effect of using concrete can no way bring one to think about it as being cheap. Decorative concrete is gaining ground in every arena, and is not limited to just outdoor choices.

The option of creating unlimited colors and textures in concrete makes it the preferred choice of decorators who are innovative and would like to experiment with floor colors and wall finishes to the extent of concrete resembling luxurious sculptured stones. This translates into unlimited range of designs that can be sculpted, imprinted or embossed on the floor as well as the walls. An expert or a professional mixer of concrete will be able to produce the exact and realistic textures with good amount of detailing. The good thing about concrete is that any color, shade or texture that comes to your mind can be developed through a few processes using decorative concrete. Texturing is created by adding compounds and mixtures to the original concrete mixture. It is always advisable to consult a professional designer or an expert to bring out the best and the most realistic designs in concrete flooring.

As decorative concrete is many times cheaper than the natural stones that we use for flooring, it is a low cost alternative that can guarantee beautiful natural finishes. Another major advantage of decorative concrete is that it can be applied to any solid surface within your home and also outdoors, while enjoying all the good benefits of an all weather durable material. The cumulative benefits of saving on material cost and labor could be substantial in any construction that uses decorative concrete solutions for their floors and walls in stylish and trendy colors, textures and finishes.

A prototype of the desired design should be tried on a small surface area before you go for a complete overlay, so that you could have a clear and definite picture of what color or texture would look like when it is done. Like most other concrete surfaces the effort and cost required to maintain decorative concrete surface is minimal. Decorative concrete is s cost efficient customer solution for homes and offices that look stylish and modern. Decorative concrete products are available in standard and customized shapes, colors and designs. As decorative concrete is a versatile building solution it can be stamped, imprinted, stained, stenciled and can be made into any shape that the customer may require.

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วันจันทร์ที่ 8 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2553

Building a Concrete Patio - Same Time and Money

If a concrete patio is decorated well after being built, it can
be an attractive part of your landscaping. It also adds
convenience to your landscaping since it is rectangular and easy
to mow around. Concrete patios also offer great places to
entertain guests and a way to increase property value. Rather than paying someone else to do it, you
can save time and money by building the concrete patio on your
own in about 3 days. It is a relatively small amount of time and
effort to build when compared to how long the patio will last.
It will be very durable and can withstand years of wear and tear.

Planning the Patio

You need to begin by planning your patio. How big do you want it
to be? You'll then need to mark off that area. Do you have all
of the necessary tools? How much concrete will be needed? A
common size for a patio is 50 square feet. To make a patio about
this size, at 6 inches thick, you will need 25 bags of pre-mixed
concrete. For the pre-mixed concrete (the best option) you will
need to have concrete tools and an automatic concrete mixer. If
you do not have these, don't want to buy them, or you can't
borrow them, you can rent them from a home improvement or
hardware store.

After marking off the area, you should use a garden shovel to dig
out the area six inches deep. Digging at this depth will allow
you to use 2 inches of gravel beneath 4 inches of concrete. It
is very important to do this in cold climates where freezing and
thawing can cause drainage problems. The gravel will prevent
these problems and prevent your patio from cracking.

After excavating the area for the patio, you should build a form
out of wood to hold the gravel and concrete in place. This will
prevent the concrete and gravel from spreading out past where you
want your patio to be. Other options besides wood for the form
are to use strong plastic or rubber. No matter what you use, the
entire form should be sunk into the ground and line the entire
border of the patio area. The top of the form should be at the
same level as the top of the lawn if you want the patio to be
flush with the ground. Next, you will add the gravel. Make sure
it is packed somewhat tightly so it doesn't shift in the future.
Next, you should add two-inch high flat pieced of rock. These
will act as supports for the rebar that will reinforce the
concrete.

Forming the Grid

The rebar is made in a grid form, and will be installed in the
middle of the 4 inch thick concrete slab. You should install it
by putting pieces 2 feet apart from front to back an left to
right. Secure the intersections of the rebar together with
wiring. It is necessary to have the rebar to help unify the
concrete and to provide extra support for the patio.

Next, you should use the automatic mixer to mix the concrete.
Closely follow the directions for adding water. You should add
water first with a hose, then begin adding concrete. You can
begin adding water again until the concrete becomes a medium
shade of shiny gray throughout. Once the concrete is mixed, you
can begin to pour it into the form. You should begin to pour at
the end of the patio farthest from the concrete mixer. You will
most likely want to transport the concrete in a wheel barrow. It
is important that you have several filler rocks ready to add to
the concrete mixture. You should have everything prepared as
much as possible before pouring, because once you begin to apply
the concrete, you should pour as quickly as possible.

After the concrete is poured, use a creed to smooth out the
surface and to take off excess concrete above the top of the form
boards. Using a mason's trowel, you should now cut initial
control joints into the patio. The joints should be 2 inches
deep, 3-4 feet apart from each other. When a watery layer
appears, you should wait for it to disappear before you move on.
Using a jointer will help you finish the control joints. You can
then make a clean groove, about one inch deep.

Finishing

Last, you can finish by adding any stylistic elements that you
would like. Pushing a broom lightly over the surface, for
example, will create a nice look while being functional in
preventing a slippery surface in wet weather. After you do this,
you should lay plastic over the patio for the concrete to "cure"
(dry) properly. The plastic should be left on for 1 week, and
you should not heavily use the patio for at least 2 weeks after
that.

Did you know that a landscaped patio area can add as much as 12.4% to the value of a property!
Once the patio is completed it's time to look at adding some landscaping as the next project for your patio.

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วันเสาร์ที่ 23 ตุลาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Resurface the Concrete Floor With Self-Leveling Concrete

If you have areas of your concrete floor that are uneven and look unsightly, you can apply a layer of self-leveling concrete to repair the damage. This concrete will solve all your height problems and allows you to control the level of the floor. You probably don't realize that there are issues with a concrete subfloor until you start to install wood flooring on top of it. Then you realize that you have a problem when the planks won't fit together easily.

This concrete is very wet and flows over the floor to create an even surface. Then you use a tool, called a Smoother, which has a flat edge attached to a pole, to smooth out the concrete by pulling it over the surface. The process is amazingly fast. You could resurface the floor of a full house in less than two hours using this type of concrete.

You can color this concrete as well, if you use it on a garage or basement floor. To do this you spray Acetone dyes all over the floor in a random pattern. Then you spray a diluted concrete acid stain on the floor and allow it to dry for about an hour. Then you rinse off this stain to prevent any chemical reaction in the concrete and remove any residue that may still remain.

The final step in applying color to the concrete is to apply a water-based concrete dye over the surface of the floor. You can do this by spraying on the dye and then evening it out suing a large microfibre mop. This will dry overnight and then you apply two coats of sealant and then a finish to give you a perfect floor that will look beautiful in any room of your home.

The best thing about this type of concrete is that you can use it after you move into the home and with the coloring you don't have to apply wood or tile on top of it. If you already have baseboards installed, all you have to do is remove them and start using the concrete to level the floor. Of course, you won't be able to walk on those areas while the concrete is drying, so you may have to make other arrangements for this time period.

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วันพุธที่ 13 ตุลาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Fully Automatic Concrete Fastening

Fully automatic gas nailers for concrete are the fastest ways to fasten to concrete. Fully automatic tools are available from Hilti, Powers and Ramset. These tools were originally designed for fastening drywall track to concrete, hence the names "Trakfast" and "Trak It" but they have evolved into useful tools for many different trades How are these nail guns different from standard powder actuated tools for fastening to concrete and what can they be used for?

Basic Principles of Gas Tools

Gas tools are basically an internal combustion engine with a cylinder, piston, spark plug, fuel source and an ignition source. Both Ramset and Powers utilize a battery while Hilti's tools function without one. As you depress the tool against the work surface, a measure of fuel is injected into the cylinder and as you pull the trigger, a spark ignites the fuel, driving the piston and in turn the fastener.

Most of the tools have a magazine holding 40 pins allowing you to fasten almost as fast as you can pull the trigger. Some tools such as the Ramset T3 SS are single shot tools that are used with a variety of single pins and assemblies such as EMT straps and ceiling clips .

Uses For Gas Tools

As mentioned earlier, drywall track is the most common use for these tools. Consider the other uses for these tools. For waterproofing membrane on to foundations. For electrical work, fastening EMT straps, ceiling clips and hangers. With the variety of pins now available, general contractors can shoot on furring strips, Powers now has the C-4 tool that will shoot down a 2 x 4, Ramset has a pin that will shoot plywood down to heavy studs. Stucco and lathing contractors can use the tool to install metal lathe by using a metal disc that mounts to the probe on the tool.

Distinct Advantages

Beyond the speed of these tools, you will find some definite advantages over powder tools for fastening to concrete. Unlike powder tools, these tools require no certification. Make no mistake, you can still put a pin through your hand, but no operators card is required. You can't overdrive these tools, they have an internal bumper to prevent it. You don't have to select different power levels like the powder tools. For the most part, they are trouble free. In theory you can put through 20,000 pins without service. This amount drops with hard applications, such as outdoor use of from lack of regular use.

Finally......

Due to their cost, these tools might not be for everyone, but I have always felt that any tool that will save you money is a free tool after a job or two, and who doesn't like free tools?

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วันจันทร์ที่ 11 ตุลาคม พ.ศ. 2553

The Two Most Important DIY Concrete Mix Recipes

Mixing concrete is a basic skill that all DIY enthusiasts should know how to do. Concrete is one of the most common and inexpensive construction materials on the planet being comprised mostly of sand, gravel and cement.

Mixing concrete is similar to baking in that to achieve consistent results it is best to follow a specific recipe. There are a multitude of different concrete mixes for different applications depending on the strength, workability and application for the concrete.

Mixing concrete is very much a science for professionals, but to the average backyard enthusiast, learning the basics of concrete is enough to get you started.

When mixing concrete you will need to mix aggregates such as sand and gravel along with cement powder and water as a catalyst to begin the chemical process of bonding the ingredients together. Mixing concrete is a function of proportions where you will measure the volume of aggregate used to the volume of cement used.

The most common concrete mix used worldwide is the 3-2-1 mix which uses three parts gravel, two parts sand and one part cement. Water is added with the idea that you should use as little water as possible to make the concrete workable for what you need it for. Concrete viscosity is measured by "slump" which refers to a specific test where the amount that a cone filed with concrete will lose its shape once the cone is removed is measured in inches or mm. A concrete with zero slump would be very rigid and dry and inclined to hold its shape, where a concrete with a slump of six inches or more would be extremely wet and not inclined to hold a shape.

The 3-2-1 mix is so widely used since you can fill large areas with concrete for relatively cheap. You could potentially use only sand and cement, no gravel, to create what is called mortar. In the 3-2-1 mix the gravel serves as a filler taking up a great deal of space while retaining a relatively high overall strength. The disadvantage of the 3-2-1 mix is that the larger gravel aggregate will often float to the surface during finishing, and is unsuitable for thin or detailed concrete applications.

The best overall mix for a DIY enthusiast to memorize and use is a simple 3:1 mortar mix. By using three parts sand and one part mortar you can create the strongest concrete possible as well as concrete that is easy to finish and detail with designs, templates or stamps. By not using the gravel the mortar will have a smoother overall consistency, but will ultimately occupy less volume than concrete made using gravel as well. If you are pouring very large volumes of concrete the gravel could prove to be cost effective however for most DIY projects a 3:1 mortar mix is the way to go.

The sand that you need to use for a 3:1 mortar mix should be sharp sand, or masonry sand or jointing sand. Each place that you purchase sand will use a different term so it can be confusing when shopping. All that you need to remember is to avoid play sand. Play sand is sand that has been washed and sterilized (this is ok) and then tumbled to soften all the edges of the individual sand grains (this is bad).

The sharp edges of the sand help to hold together the concrete mix better than the rounded edges of the tumbled sand. Ideally you would like to find sand from landscape supply stores which will sell to you by the cubic yard. With a strong trailer you can pick up as much sand as you could possibly need for next to nothing - plus the quality of the sand for making cement will be very high.

The applications for a DIY enthusiast to use a 3:1 mortar mix are huge. Everything from fixing broken outdoor steps and stairs, driveways, patios, decks, ponds, waterfalls, artificial rock, statues and much more is possible with a simple mix of sand, cement and water.

Start with small concrete projects to get a better feel and understanding for how to work with concrete. Since concrete is so popular world wide, and is a highly advanced science, you will never run out of interesting concrete applications to learn about or try. Combined with being the most affordable construction material on the planet and readily available everywhere - learning to mix basic concrete recipes is a fundamental DIY project.

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วันศุกร์ที่ 20 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2553

How I Came to Choose Decorative Concrete Engraving For My Garden Home

I have an old concrete pad in my yard that wasn't doing anything except keeping the weeds down, and I wanted to turn it into something useful without using a process that created any carbon footprint to speak of. The concrete is the floor from a 20 ft.x20 ft. detached garage that had been demolished several years ago. The concrete is in good shape. I decided to make this large slab the floor of my 'garden home/summer kitchen' by building a pole structure over it, using screens and panels for infill. The roof will have a wide overhang to control weather exposure such as hard rains, blowing snows or direct sun.

I don't want just plain old ugly gray concrete for a floor, so I'm looking at the 'greenness' of three floor treatments:
Carpet: Indoor/Outdoor types because the buildings' interior will be partially out in the weather and can expect heavy picnic/outdoor use.
Hardwoods: Exterior or deck woods because of the weather exposure and the inside/outside life of a garden home.
Decorative Concrete Engraving: I'm intrigued by the tools available for decorative concrete engraving and have found places that offer hands-on training seminars about the engraving process and use of the tools.

The three options, decorative concrete engraving, hardwood, and carpet have some true cash cost for installation. There are 'hidden' costs such as moisture control, padding and one-time-use installation equipment. All will have installation labor on top of materials. I'm not considering the dollars and cents investment in this comparison although they are important factors for the final choice.

Greenness is the focus today.

All of the options will be subjected to changing weather and temperatures, plus humidity. The screen areas will have drop shades on any panels that require control of direct sun which will help relieve UV risks to any of the three choices.

Carpet

Carpet comes to the party with a distinct disadvantage. I don't like carpet. The upkeep is not appealing to me; a wet/dry vacuum will be required because of the outdoor conditions. Carpet would require protection from furniture and pets because it can be stained, torn, snagged, and unraveled. Concerns for care include dirt that will most assuredly be tracked in. And food spills which bring mold potential. If I don't get tired of the pattern or if I can forget the cat pee, chocolate milk spills and mud stains, this specific carpet can be my flooring for 10 plus years. The material content is not organic. When the carpet becomes unattractive, unhealthy and disgusting enough to justify getting rid of it, it's going to end up in a landfill.

Greenness: Carpet requires energy for manufacturing; synthetic materials that are petroleum based. When new, there will be issues with irritating dyes and other chemicals. The snuggly soft carpet can be habitat for molds and dust allergens leading to "early onset functional obsolescence." The choice of indoor/outdoor materials may extend the functional life over other types. The bulk contains materials that will not dissolve in the landfill. Carpet isn't making a great impression as a green choice.

Hardwood Flooring

Hardwoods are a little more appealing. General upkeep can be a broom, dust mop or light vacuum, with maybe a little wet mopping with wood loving cleaners. Mold, odors, and general gross appearance are not permanent parts of the floor. That type of maintenance is more my style. While messes can be cleaned up, the risk of staining or scratching remains and is better known as "character" in hardwood floors. Hardwoods and I can plan on a long term relationship; some brands come with a 25 year warranty. Since the structure is a 'garden home, possible issues down the road aren't as scary. They can involve: abnormal cracks, cupping, crowning, insects, termites, loose boards, peeling finish, buckling, color changes.

Greenness: I can choose a wood that utilizes 'junk' timber that grows fast, so tree 'killing' isn't an issue. Or I can think about bamboo, a renewable crop source which can be made into attractive decking material. Chemicals used in processing, plus energy for sawing the timber are considerations. Finishes can be toxic or irritating. When I'm ready for something different, the boards would have some value as firewood. Because of nails and glue used in installation, the probability is high that much of this floor would go to the landfill. Wood is organic, but slow to break down when buried in a landfill.Hardwood seems greener than carpet and definitely more to my taste.

Decorative Concrete Engraving

What is this process of decorative concrete engraving?

In my garden dreams, home decor teamed with plain, ugly concrete doesn't have a poetic image.

The concrete is there regardless of which option I select. If I choose to transform it into an attractive, useful primary flooring for my garden home/summer kitchen, what will move the Green-o-meter?

Greenness: The concrete can be stained using an acid stain that will permanently penetrate a shallow depth of the concrete. Typically, this stain has a 'marbled' look because every square inch of the concrete will respond uniquely to the acid chemical of the stain. As I said before, I like low maintenance; that marbling appeals to me. Or, I can choose a water reducible concentrated stain that bonds to the concrete. Either method can then be engraved with a pattern of my choice; geometric, abstract or imitating nature. When the staining and engraving processes have been completed, the entire surface is protected by an outdoor acrylic sealer. The stains and sealer have environmental risk only if they are improperly applied. After application and curing, they are solid. They STAY put. Should I decide to change colors or patterns, there are some simple removal applications available, including sandblasting with a vacuum system that keeps dust minimal. Nothing for the landfill. By my measures, decorative concrete is the greenest option.

The certain loss of anything ceramic, glass or pottery that could be dropped on the concrete surface is a disadvantage. Carpet or hardwoods would offer a small insurance against breakage...very small. Not so with the engraved concrete. Broken cups are relegated to the dollars and cents department and won't influence the Green ratings.

It looks like decorative concrete engraving is the best choice for leaving the least carbon foot-print.

Now to choose a contractor who does decorative concrete engraving and get started. Or perhaps I will let myself have some of those intriguing tools and do my own engraving.

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วันพุธที่ 14 กรกฎาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Concrete Recycling Can Save Money

Building crews will find that the cost of concrete can be quite high and when their need for concrete is large that translates into a major concrete bill. One way crews can save a large amount of money is through concrete recycling.

Concrete recycling is also a big money saver for demolition crews. Recycling the concrete from a site is far cheaper than transporting it to the landfill. Additionally, keeping concrete out of the landfill is a good way to keep landfill size manageable.

A Couple Recycling Options

Concrete recycling can be done in one of two ways. It can be recycled from the site or it can be taken to a disposal center where it is then recycled into new material.

Recycling from the site means that someone has to be able to use the broken and used concrete as is without a need for turning it into new material. Sometimes this is a viable option and this is the biggest money saver for all involved. The people taking the recycled material will get a nice discount price and the demolition or construction crew that own the concrete will not have to pay to haul it away and may even make money from reselling it.

Uses for Recycled Concrete

When concrete is taken to a disposal center it has to be processed. The processing will break down the concrete and remove any foreign particles. It will also sort the concrete pieces according to size and quality. The concrete is then crushed to be used again. Crushed concrete can be used to make aggregate.

How Concrete is Recycled

Concrete is usually just torn out of an existing site and then taken to be recycled or picked up at the site to use again. However, there are some newer technological advances that help make the process easier these include:

- Equipment for breaking up used concrete

- New techniques for removal of foreign particles

- Stronger crushing equipment that is more efficient

The whole point of recycling concrete is to help save energy. A lot of energy goes into producing new concrete. This is from the process of mining the materials, processing and transportation. When concrete is recycled all of these areas is conserved. This greatly helps to save on energy costs and preserve the resources that make energy which are greatly threatened. Additionally, concrete recycling helps to free up landfill space for trash that will disincarnate quickly and not cause need for new landfills.

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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 27 มิถุนายน พ.ศ. 2553

Building Stairs With Old Concrete

What a great idea using your old side walk or driveway to build a nice stairway for your front or back yard. Using the old concrete instead of sending it to the landfill. Wow talk about earth friendly. Who would have thought that using recycled concrete would create a beautiful center piece in your landscaping plans.

That's enough about that lets get to the nuts and bolts of building the stairs. I came across the idea by visiting one of our favorite breakfast stops in Fallbrook. I had been walking down these stairs for quite a while when it dawned on me that the stairs where kind of jagged. When I took a closer look I couldn't figure it out, What kind of building materials did they use.

Then I realized it was recycled concrete in other words someone's old side walk. They even used the old concrete to make some nice planter boxes and retaining walls. The whole area really looks nice. The landscaping created natural look with a old world look to it.

How do I build the stairs using recycled concrete? Simply put first thing you need to do is get some recycled concrete. If you are going to be tearing up a old sidewalk, driveway or patio then you won't have to look far.

If not you can contact some local general or demolition contractors. They would love to have someone haul away their concrete. The reason for this is they have to pay around five hundred dollars for every ten tons hauled away from the jobs they are working on.

The more recycled concrete you need the easier it will be to get it. If you need a lot you will be able to contact a concrete recycling plant and get the phone number to a local contractor that hauls broken up concrete to their plants. These people can drop off a large load if you have a large area to drop it.

Remember that most contractors don't want to be bothered because they are busy working or planning on working. The easier you can make it on the contractor the more likely you will get what you want from them. They usually aren't interested in doing extra work just to make you happy. You can get a lot by being courteous from most people.

Now that you have the concrete you can start building. The concrete will be stacked on top of the other concrete to form the steps. Depending on how long of a stairway you are building you will have to level the dirt and stack the recycled concrete to make the stairs.

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